Almost as tricky to master as the black art of suspension (but not really) the tall tale of the handle bar is a very interesting conversation between those in the know and those who are tall. We are all looking for that comfort factor when we ride and it all starts at the handlebars.

From the beginning of time, handlebars have dominated the cockpit of your dirt bike. They are the souls that drain all your information and input, and the Gods that throw it all into the bike. They change the way you ride and they change they way the bike handles. They allow you to sit forward on the seat but can cramp you up at the same time. Handlebars are one of the only things you can adjust, even if just the slightest, where you feel the difference instantly. So let's get to the bottom...or top of this much talked about subject.

Firstly, here is a handlebars 101. You basically have two different types of handle bar. A crossbar type, which you would probably associate with Renthal, and a crossbar-less style, which Pro Taper initiated back in the day. There are many variations of size, shape, length and diameter across many, many different brands. But whichever size or shape you head towards, it will either have a crossbar or it won’t.

An exception would be the Pro Taper Fusion bar which has a crossbar that you can ‘unlock’ to give you the feeling of a crossbar-less bar, while still having that crossbar look.

Crossbar Handlebars

As you would imagine, the crossbar give the handlebar more rigidity feeling when using it on the track. You get less flex from the bars and it should feel overall stiffer.

Crossbar-less Handlebars

As you can probably guess, the style of handlebar has no crossbar and therefore is more flexible when you’re riding. It will generally assist to smooth out the vibrations better compared to its crossbar cousin.

If you are a rider who gets lots of arm pump and you run the crossbar, you might benefit from switching to a crossbar-less option to give you more flex and a softer feeling. On the other end, you might be a rider who feels that his front end is too ‘smooshy’ for lack of a better word, and want to feel more connected to the bike. Give the crossbar type bars a swing and see if that helps out.

But more often than not, the average rider will pick the type of handlebar he likes to see in front of him when he’s riding. For example, I like the look of the Renthal Twinwall handlebars with the fat crossbar. It’s just my thing. Truth be told that the bend that I really like in the Renthal range, is also available in the crossbar-less style, but I just like the look of the crossbar - simple as that. Handlebars are not cheap so it’s only natural that you stick with what you know. But also know that there might be a better bar out there for you, so keep reading and make your mind up for yourself.

Bends

Nope, not what you get from deep sea diving, I’m talking about bar bends...and there are a hell of a lot of bends to choose from with a whole host of technicalities to them too. But these are the main dimensions to consider when getting new bars for your bike.

1. Height

This is the overall height of your handle bars when in the neutral position. This is variable depending on how far forward or back you rotate your handlebars in the clamp.

2. Rise

This is the height between your bar clamps and the position at which your bars bend into the area that you are gripping. This length will always stay constant.

3. Sweep

This is the amount an angle, measured in length, that the handlebars sweep back towards you so that you get that comfortable feeling on the bike.

All three dimensions work together to create an end result. Changing any of the dimensions singularity will change the rest by default - which is how you get different bar bends. Check out the diagrams to get a clear understanding.

Now again, there is no one bend to rule them all. It is very rider specific. You might be the same height, weight and speed as your mate but you might like completely different bars. There are a few ‘guidelines’ that we would recommend you stick to, or at least start from if you are in the hunt for a new set of bars for your steed.

Here is a top triple clamp that comes stock on the 2019 Honda CRF450R. You can see the two mounting holes which gives you options to adjust your bars forward or back. Try these before raising your setup.

If you range anywhere from 5.6’ to 6.2’ then you might have some real luck with bar bends that sit around these dimensions. From scouring the internet, using many different bar bends myself and listening to Kris Keefer from keeferinctesting.com, check these numbers out.

Height - 85-89 mm

Rise - 52-56 mm

Sweep - 52-55 mm

For example, Pro Taper make a bar bend that sits in those parameters. It is called the SX Race bend. Renthal make one similar to - model number 672-01. Now don’t get too hung up on what they call these bars. SX Race doesn’t mean it’s only for Supercross, it’s just a name the guy came up with. If you are a taller guy and you’re convinced you need taller bars, then look for a bend that is 5-10 mm higher at max. Vice versa for shorter riders.

This is a classic what not to do if you think you need to get more height from your cockpit. This would seriously affect your ability to control the bike and ride safely off-road.

Bar Mounts

Probably the biggest myth when it comes to handlebars. Taller riders need taller bars. It is just simply not true. I am 6.2 and I run a stock height bar clamp with Renthal 998 Twinwall handlebars. They are a hair taller than our recommended range but with the way I ride I tend to hit my knees on my bars when cornering. I used to think I needed tall bars and risers but have since gone back to stock height and played around with different bar bends. If you have the option to move your bars forward on the triple clamps then do that first to give yourself more room before investing in tall bars or taller bar mounts.

Bar Position in the Clamp

The position at which you set your bars makes a big difference too. Rolled too far forward will compromise handling and rolling too far back will compromise strength. Neutral is a great place to start and you can get an idea from the images below.

If you have your bike on the ground, get at eye level with the handlebars looking from the rear fender and look to see where your grips are pointing. Pointing too far down is no good. Pointing too far up is also no good. A flat grip is a really good place to start from and then you can roll the bars forward or back a hair to get your own ultimate set up.

A classic example of having your handlebars rolled too far back towards you. It cramps up the cockpit and actually decreases your strength through the bars. The angle of the grips pointing down also promotes low elbows, which in turn creates bad bod… — A classic example of having your handlebars rolled too far back towards you. It cramps up the cockpit and actually decreases your strength through the bars. The angle of the grips pointing down also promotes low elbows, which in turn creates bad body position.

On the other end, these bars have been rolled too far forward. This will create an unstable front end as you will have too much weight over the front. You might think that it feels better standing up but you decrease your ability to properly control… — On the other end, these bars have been rolled too far forward. This will create an unstable front end as you will have too much weight over the front. You might think that it feels better standing up but you decrease your ability to properly control the motorcycle.

This neutral position of the bars is a great place to start from when you are setting up your bike. Notice the grips are nearly flat, with a tiny amount of downward slope. Rolling your bars forward and backwards by mere millimeters can totally chang… — This neutral position of the bars is a great place to start from when you are setting up your bike. Notice the grips are nearly flat, with a tiny amount of downward slope. Rolling your bars forward and backwards by mere millimeters can totally change how the bars feel. Start from the middle and tune in your personal riding preference through tiny adjustments till you find your spot. And if you never find it, then get a different bend of handlebar.

Every individual bar maker will have different ways to mark their bar positions.

Sure, a higher bar setup might give you a more comfortable feeling when standing up, but it actually takes away the bikes ability to be thrown around and ridden hard. It can lead to less control and not a very good riding technique. Check out the pros at your local track and see if the taller riders are running a higher setup - chances are they are probably not.

Cody Webb is a tall guy, and he had this to say about handlebar risers on his Instagram earlier this year…and if it’s good enough for Cody Webb, it is most definitely good enough for you and me.

If you have any more questions about handlebars or risers or anything cockpit related, please get in touch and I’ll try to answer all your questions - chris@thedirt.co.nz.